Kiwi adventurer BareKiwi took the Road Less Travelled and discovered the heartland of the Whakatāne district. Travelling from the coast up the Rangitaiki River, through the hinterlands of Galatea and Murupara, into Whirinaki Te Pua-aTāne and onto Te Urewera and it's heart Ruatāhuna. Check out all his adventures below.
The Road Less Travelled
“The trip from Whakatane to Ruatahuna is best described as a journey - and it was one of the best journey’s I’ve ever experienced. My expectations were exceeded.
Doors seemed to open along the way and time slowed down. It felt like I’d been in there for months. There’s no doubt that going into Te Urewera is quite intimidating, as you're unaware of what you're going to say, do, hear or feel. But the people we met were so friendly, which made it an indescribably positive experience. I guess you could say that it was one of the most intimidatingly welcoming places I've ever been in my life!
Experience: Riverbug
“The idea of riding a Riverbug wasn’t new to me - I used to guide Riverbug trips on the Buller River in Murchison.
The Rangitāiki experience was different though; the canyon is spectacularly beautiful and the trip is perfect for any ability level. It's basically just pure fun, like getting a tube and floating down a river.
Having kids on the trip with us made it even more enjoyable. They absolutely loved it!”
"It's basically just pure fun, like getting a tube and floating down a river."
Indulge: Kohutapu Lodge & Whirinaki Forest Footsteps
Kohutapu Lodge
“This place was a surprise and a half, because when you get to Galatea there’s some farmland, there’s some forestry, and more farmland. Then you drive down their driveway and it opens up to a stunning location overlooking Lake Aniwhenua. That part we stayed in at Kohutapu Lodge is super high end - just like what you would expect from somewhere like Queenstown. But the best part is not the location or the setting, it’s the people. The hospitality is amazing and Nadine is a natural. You can’t train people to host like that. What’s refreshing though is it wasn’t put on for us. I know tour bus drivers who have visited the place, and they all said it was the friendliest place they used to stay on tour. That’s impressive considering these drivers have been everywhere! Kohutapu is a perfect gateway to the Whirinaki. We were briefed on what was coming up, and it made the experience that much more special.”
"But the best part is not the location or the setting, it’s the people. The hospitality is amazing"
Whirinaki Forest Footsteps
“This place – Whirinaki-te-Pua a Tane – was just magical. It’s another world, as both the forest and bird life was like nothing I’ve ever experienced in my life. My guide, Himi, led me through the forest to a towering 1,000 year old Totara tree. Along the way Himi foraged for berries, explaining what each one was. This introduction to the Whirinaki Forest cemented the fact that I had to see The Canyon of Toi for myself.”
"It’s another world, as both the forest and bird life was like nothing I’ve ever experienced in my life"
Explore: Te Urewera Treks
"Te Urewera Treks is almost best described as a spiritual experience because of how connected Hinewai is to Papatūānuku and the Ngahere. One of my favourite parts was just sitting down for a chat over a cup of Horopito tea. There is a certain something about being in that forest with Hinewai. One thing that really stood out was there was no set destination for our guided walk so it encourages you to slow down. It allows you to become so in tune to the story, the rich history of the forest comes to life and reaching a destination isn’t the focus. I've never had a tour like that before.
“Staying at Whakatau Retreat was such a unique experience – but it’s not necessarily for everyone given it’s completely off the grid camping. If you are the right person, you’ll discover how incredible ‘forest-bathing’ is."
"One of my favourite parts was just sitting down for a chat over a cup of Horopito tea."
Discover: Ruatāhuna
“Ruatāhuna is an absolute oasis within Te Urewera. There’s perhaps a perception that there’s nothing along the road to Lake Waikaremoana but no, there’s Ruatāhuna. I was not prepared for it to be so well equipped and accessible. The Te Tii Chalets are modern and comfortable, right in the heart of Ruatahuna, and the café was fantastic with delicious Kai. You’d just sit there and watch the world go by; sheep running down the street, kids on horse-back. One of the local men was sitting there demolishing his big breakfast and washing it down with a loaf of white bread. He was a heavy set guy with tattoos, the sort of person who looked intimidating, but when I commented and asked how the kai was, he was just so friendly. That’s the personification of the place."
"You’d just sit there and watch the world go by; sheep running down the street, kids on horse-back."
Taste: Manawa Honey
Manawa Honey is a really cool story. This place in the middle of the bush off the beaten track that now makes incredible tasting honey. When I knew I was visiting them, I had this idea in my head that there would be a massive sign and gift shop selling the honey. However, they had me horseback riding and tasting honey next to the river. Then afterwards I put on a bee suits and looked at the beehives!
"They had me horseback riding and tasting honey next to the river. Then afterwards I put on a bee suits and looked at the beehives"
