A family weekend in Whakatāne

Article and photography by Ceana Priest of Outdoor Kid Guidebooks, 2023.

Kickstart your visit at the Whakatāne isite Visitor Centre for insider tips on local happenings, and grab a Kiwi Wandering Trail guide to discover life-size statues of 10 mighty kiwi that have helped earn this coastal township its title of 'Kiwi Capital of New Zealand.' More than 300 kiwi live within forested ridgelines surrounding the town, a remarkable conservation comeback from when the population was a mere 8.

Venture offshore on a salt-laden breezy boat trip to Moutohorā Island, where visitors tread lightly within an extraordinary forest home to rare wildlife before spending a leisurely afternoon strolling Whakatāne's main street and exploring the nearby Te Wairere waterfall.

As the day winds down, choose a dining spot from lively restaurants offering family-friendly options or self-cater at your accommodation. After a hearty breakfast on Sunday, delve into Whakatāne's captivating history at Te Kōputu a Te Whanga a Toi — Whakatāne Library and Exhibition Centre. Discover the intertwined stories of Māori and European settlers that shaped the town's early days before embarking on a nature hike along the Ngā Tapuwae o Toi Trail.

Moutohorā Island | Whale Island

Moutohorā Island offers visitors a glimpse of what New Zealand's untamed wilderness once looked like. Rare and endangered creatures coexist on the forested volcanic cone, a refuge where tuatara bask in the sunlight and North Island brown kiwi forage at night. Guided tours depart from Whakatāne Wharf, offering a quick 15-minute boat ride to this pest-free island, where salty breezes embrace its weathered volcanic peaks shaped like a whale's back. Roam through a regenerating forest teeming with biodiversity rarely seen on the mainland before uncovering the island's past, from archaeological artefacts of its earliest inhabitants to tales of unsuccessful whaling ventures and rock and sulfur mining - all before Moutohorā Island was designated a sanctuary in the late 1900s. For nature enthusiasts, this sanctuary is paradise; kororā (little blue penguins), ōi (grey-faced petrels), and tīeke (North Island saddleback) have made it their home. Guided tours blend adventure and relaxation into an ecological experience suitable for the entire family. Kids will love digging beachside pools to relax in warm geothermal waters bubbling up next to the Pacific Ocean. 

Information: Access to the island is limited to guided tours. See the tour operators that visit the island here.

Tarawera Falls 

The distant rumble of this 35-meter-tall waterfall fills the forest long before it appears, erupting from an ancient lava flow into a rock-strewn valley. Drawing its waters from high above the falls, where the glistening Tarawera River disappears into submerged caves within a lava flow, only to burst out halfway up the sheer cliff face. Following heavy rain, the flooded caves occasionally redirect water over the lava flow's edge, creating an additional 65-metre-high waterfall.

Starting from the car park, the well-graded pathway meanders across a bridge, then upstream beside the river, winding between massive boulders cloaked in moss - with spindly trees perched on top - to a viewpoint of the falls. Bring a picnic to enjoy beside this dramatic waterfall shaped by the region's volcanic past. 

Need to know: Walking only. Allow 20 minutes. No dogs. Toilet available at the car park. The waterfall is only accessible during weekends and public holidays. A permit must be purchased from Kawerau Visitor Centre before driving 30 minutes on private forestry roads to the waterfall car park. See more information about the Falls here.

Ngā Tapuwae o Toi Trail | Footprints of Toi 

Journey through kiwi-filled forests, discover heritage sites, soak in vast ocean views from clifftops, and walk beneath sprawling coastal forests on this 16-kilometre-long trail. Typically, the trail takes 5 to 7 hours to complete, but families can opt for shorter, kid-friendly sections, ranging from a mere 30 minutes to a few hours.

Discover the secluded Otarawairere Beach - only accessible on foot or across glistening waters on kayaks - with its sprawling pōhutukawa trees providing shade beside the creamy-coloured shoreline. Stroll beneath shady trees within the Mokorua Bush Scenic Reserve, a sanctuary for North Island kiwi, to vantage points above the nīkau-filled forest. Or, explore one of the country's largest remaining coastal pōhutukawa forests at Ōhope Scenic Reserve, which comes alive at night in a symphony of ruru (morepork) and kiwi calls - especially during the kiwi mating season between April and July – and discover glowworms illuminating the stream. 

Need to know: Walking only. No dogs. For the latest track updates visit doc.govt.nz. See more information here.   

Awa Motel | Whakatāne 

Perched between the bush-clad hills surrounding Whakatāne and the bustling pōhutukawa-lined wharf, this four-star motel is the ideal launching pad for nature walks and offshore adventures. Choose from architecturally designed cabins in the micro-village through to two- and three-bedroom apartments or entire villas overlooking the meandering Whakatāne River.

On-site Café Awa serves freshly roasted coffee, a range of teas, homemade granola, bagels and hearty breakfasts and lunches. This lively, sun-soaked café is popular with locals and guests, with a bustling crowd arriving throughout the day to enjoy the views and fare. The motel also operates guided tours to the eco-sanctuary of Moutohorā with its seal colony, hot-water beaches and forests brimming with rare and endangered wildlife. 

Information: Café Awa is open from 7am to 2pm daily. Moutohorā Island tours can be booked at the motel, or from moutohora.co.nz. For motel reservations, visit awammotel.co.nz. See more information here for the Motel. And more information for the café here.

Cadera | Mexican Bar and Restaurant

Whether you're in the mood for a fiery kick to your taste buds or a mellow coconut margarita, this warmly lit, lively restaurant on the main street of Ōhope has spice levels for everyone.

Sit outside on the back porch below twinkling lights, listening to the crashing waves of Ōhope Beach while the kids roam the grassy area. Sombreros are available to channel your inner Mexican spirit and toasty rugs to warm knees after the sun sets. The wide-ranging menu includes tapas, nachos, tacos, salads, burritos, fajitas, ribs, and steaks.

Gluten-free, vegetarian and vegan options are available. Feeling parched? House mixologists are on hand to whip up cocktails: choose from fresh lime mojitos to tequila-based palomas, or peruse the wide-ranging beer, wine, sangria, soft drink and frozen cocktails menu. Make sure to reserve a table in advance, as this popular spot buzzes year-round. 

Information: 19 Pōhutukawa Avenue, Ōhope. 07 312 6122. See more information here. 

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